The Undercut: What It Is, Types, How It's Cut & How to Style It

An undercut is a haircut where the sides and back are clipped short while the top is left much longer, with no blending between the two. The name describes the technique: the hair under the top section is cut away, and the long top falls over it. Where a fade spends its whole effort creating a smooth transition, the undercut does the opposite — it leaves a clean, visible line (a "disconnection") between short and long. That contrast is the point.

The cut was common among young men in the early 20th century, especially from the 1910s to the 1930s, when it was a practical, cheap cut that kept the sides tidy. It came back strongly in the 2010s as the slick-back undercut and has since spread into textured, faded, long-hair and women's versions.

What makes a haircut an undercut

Two things define it. First, the sides and back are short — traditionally one uniform length, cut with a single guard such as a #1 (3mm) or #2 (6mm), or taken to the skin. Second, there is a disconnection: the long top is not blended into the sides. Part the top hair and you'll see a clear step where short meets long.

Modern barbers often fade the short section (an "undercut fade"), but as long as the top stays disconnected from the sides, it's still an undercut. Everything else — the top length, how it's styled, how high the short section goes — is a variation.

Undercut vs. fade vs. taper

How high should an undercut go?

The key landmark is the parietal ridge — the widest point of your head, where the sides start curving into the top. Where the short section stops relative to it changes the whole look:

• Low undercut: around the tops of the ears. Subtle, easy to hide with a longer top, office-friendly.
• Mid undercut: about halfway between the ear and the ridge, or at the temple. The most common choice.
• High undercut: right up to the parietal ridge. Maximum contrast; the long top sits on a narrow strip. Adds height and slims a round face.

Going above the ridge usually looks odd, because the top hair can no longer fall over the line — it sticks out instead. If your hair is very thick, a slightly higher undercut removes bulk and helps the top lie flat.

Types of undercut

Slick-back undercut

The version that started the modern revival: 4–6 inches on top combed straight back with pomade, over short sides. It's a slick-back on an undercut base. Easiest on straight or slightly wavy hair, which lies flat when combed back.

Disconnected undercut

The purest form: sides at a #1 or skin, a long top, and the hard line left completely visible. A "textured top disconnected undercut" is the same base with a choppy, point-cut top instead of a sleek one. Bold and fashion-forward.

Undercut fade

The short section is faded — skin at the bottom, up to a #1 or #2 at the line — but the top stays disconnected. You get the clean finish of a skin fade with the contrast of an undercut, and it grows out a little more gracefully.

Textured / short undercut

Only 2–3 inches on top, point-cut for separation and styled messy with matte clay. It's the low-effort, everyday version and works well with a 1–1.5 inch top if you style it forward like a textured crop. Suits wavy and curly hair, which gains natural texture.

Side-part undercut

The top is combed to one side over a deep part, sometimes with a shaved-in hard part. A sharper, more classic look that pairs well with a suit. See the side part guide.

Quiff and pompadour undercut

Three to six inches on top, blow-dried up and back for height at the front. The short sides make the volume look even taller. See the quiff and pompadour guides.

Long-hair undercut (man bun and top knot)

Eight inches or more on top, tied up in a man bun or top knot. The shaved sides keep the tied-up hair neat and cool, and let the hair down to cover them when you want.

Curly undercut

Curls on top, short sides. Leave extra length (curls shrink when dry) and use a curl cream rather than pomade. Closely related to the broccoli haircut, which usually uses a faded rather than disconnected side.

Two-block haircut

A Korean take on the undercut. The sides and back are cut short as the lower "block", and the top is left long enough to hang over it, hiding the disconnection. Usually styled with a middle or comma part. See the two-block guide.

Undercut with a line or design

A shaved line, part or pattern is added in the short section with a trimmer. It needs touching up every 1–2 weeks to stay sharp.

Women's undercut

Usually placed where it can be hidden — at the nape, behind one ear, or on one side — under longer hair. See our dedicated women's undercut guide.

How much length you need on top

Hair grows roughly half an inch (1.25cm) a month, so going from a short cut to a 5-inch slick-back takes around six months. You can get the undercut sides straight away and let the top grow into the style.

How to ask your barber for an undercut

Tell your barber three things: how short the sides go, how high the undercut goes, and how you style the top. Some ready-to-use scripts:

• Classic slick-back: "An undercut with a #2 on the sides and back, disconnected, up to just below the parietal ridge. Leave the top long — I comb it straight back — just take the ends off and tidy the neckline."
• Textured: "A mid undercut with a #1 on the sides, no blend. Keep about 2–3 inches on top, point-cut for texture. I style it messy with clay."
• Undercut fade: "Skin fade up to a #1 at the line, but keep it disconnected from the top. Leave the top long enough to push back."

The number describes the length: a #1 leaves 3mm and shows scalp, a #2 leaves 6mm and is the most common, and a #3 (10mm) is the softest option. See the full clipper guard sizes chart and our guide on how to ask your barber.

How an undercut is cut, step by step

This is how most barbers cut a classic undercut — useful if you want to understand what's happening in the chair, or if someone is cutting yours at home.

1. Section the top. On damp hair, part a horseshoe-shaped section from temple to temple around the top of the head, at the height you want the undercut to stop. Clip the top hair up and out of the way.
2. Clip the sides and back. With the chosen guard, cut upwards against the direction of growth, from the neckline and around the ears up to the section line. Use the same guard throughout for a classic undercut.
3. Check the line. Compare both sides in the mirror and make sure the edge sits at the same height all the way round.
4. Clean up the edges. Outline around the ears and neckline with a trimmer (see line-ups), and square or taper the nape.
5. Cut the top. Let the top down and cut it with scissors — trim the length, then point-cut or thin it to control bulk so it falls over the line.
6. Style and check. Blow-dry and style the top, then check the line from every angle.

Cutting your own undercut is doable for the sides but hard at the back without a second mirror or a helper. Read how to cut your own hair first.

How to style an undercut

1. Start with towel-dried, damp hair. For extra volume, work in a little sea salt spray or mousse.
2. Blow-dry the top in the direction it will sit — back for a slick-back, up and back for a quiff or pompadour, forward for a textured look. This does most of the work.
3. Rub a fingertip-sized amount of product between your palms until it's warm, then work it in from the back to the front, roots to ends.
4. Shape it: comb through for a sleek finish, or use your fingers for a textured one.
5. Optional: a light mist of hairspray for all-day hold.

For a deeper comparison of pomade, clay, paste, wax and gel, see our hair products guide.

Pros and cons of an undercut

Face shapes and hair types

An undercut adds height and takes width away from the sides, so it tends to lengthen the face. Oval and oblong faces carry any version. Round faces benefit from the height — keep the top styled up, not flat. Square faces suit textured or side-swept tops that soften strong angles. Long faces should keep the top lower and avoid tall pompadours. Check the face shape guide for more.

By hair type: straight hair (type 1) is the classic slick-back canvas; wavy hair (type 2) looks great textured with matte product; curly hair (type 3) works with extra length on top for spring-back; coily hair (type 4) suits a short, sculpted top over tight sides.

Maintenance and growing it out

Hair grows at the same rate on top and at the sides, but the sides show it first: half an inch of growth doubles or triples the length of a #2. Book a sides-and-back tidy every 2–4 weeks and a proper top trim every 6–8 weeks.

To grow an undercut out, stop cutting the sides and just tidy the neckline and around the ears. After two to three months the sides reach a length a barber can blend into a taper or longer side part, which hides the awkward stage.