The Broccoli Haircut: Curly Top Fade for Gen-Z

The name comes from the shape: a compact, rounded cluster of curls sitting on top of the head, like the floret head of a broccoli stalk. Below it, the sides are taken down to a high or skin fade, creating maximum contrast between the dense, round top and the bare sides. The broccoli haircut took off among teenagers and Gen-Z in the early 2020s, helped along by TikTok, and is now a routine request in barbershops with younger clients. For guys with naturally curly or coily hair, it's a celebration of natural texture. For straight-haired guys, it's achievable through a perm, and the whole process — growth, perm, upkeep — is worth understanding before you commit.

What makes the broccoli cut look the way it does

Two things are working together in this cut. First, the volume and roundness of the top: the curls or coils need enough length (3–5 inches) to form a cohesive, rounded mass rather than lying close to the scalp. The curl pattern — whether natural or permed — lifts the hair away from the head and groups it into the cluster shape. Second, the tight fade on the sides creates the stem: a clean, almost architectural transition from bare skin up to the round mass of curls. The higher and tighter the skin fade, the more the broccoli silhouette reads clearly.

Getting the broccoli cut with straight hair: the perm process

For guys with straight or wavy hair (type 1–2), the path to a broccoli cut runs through a perm. Here's what that process actually involves:

1. Grow the top to at least 3–4 inches. The perm needs length to form visible curl clusters. If you start with 2 inches, the result will be tight frizz rather than round coils.
2. Choose the rod size with your stylist. The classic broccoli look uses small to medium rods, which give a tight, springy curl that bunches into a round cluster. Larger rods give a looser wave that tends to fall flat rather than form the floret shape. Bring a photo of the curl tightness you want — stylists read that better than rod measurements.
3. The chemical process. A reducing solution is applied to break the hair's internal bonds, the hair is wrapped around rods, and a neutralising solution sets the new curl shape. The whole appointment usually takes 2–3 hours. Go to a stylist experienced with men's perms — a poorly executed perm leaves the curls uneven or over-processed.
4. Wait 48–72 hours before washing. Wetting the hair too soon undoes the set of the new curl pattern. Avoid tying, pinning or putting any pressure on the curls during this window.
5. Switch to a sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates strip moisture and loosen the curl pattern faster. A gentle, moisturising shampoo extends the life of the perm significantly.

The broccoli cut for naturally curly and coily hair

For type 3 (curly) and type 4 (coily) hair, the broccoli shape often comes naturally with the right cut and fade. The key is getting the top to the right length and shaping the sides to complement the roundness of the curl mass. A mid fade or high fade on the sides defines the shape; a skin fade makes it most dramatic.

The afro taper is a closely related style — it uses the natural volume of coily hair with a tapered or faded side and is a direct ancestor of the modern broccoli cut's aesthetic. The difference is mainly in terminology and the specific level of contrast: the broccoli cut tends to use a higher, tighter fade for maximum silhouette impact.

The right fade for a broccoli cut

The fade height determines how much of the "stem" is visible and how dramatic the silhouette reads:

• High skin fade: The most common choice. The fade starts near the temples, just below the parietal ridge (where the head starts to curve inward), and takes the sides down to bare skin, maximising the visual contrast with the round top. Needs a touch-up every 2–3 weeks.
• Mid fade: Starts at the mid-temple. Still creates strong contrast but with slightly more hair retained on the sides, giving a softer transition at the crown. A good choice if you want a softer outline or work somewhere a bare-skin high fade feels like too much.
• Taper only: Works if you want the broccoli top without an aggressive fade — a taper keeps the sides more conservative while the curly top still reads as the focal point. Better suited to oval or oblong faces.

How to ask your barber for a broccoli haircut

Barbers know the name, but "broccoli cut" covers everything from a soft taper to a bald high fade, so spell out the three variables: fade height, how short the bottom goes, and how much comes off the top. A script you can read out or show on your phone:

Swap in your own choices: for a softer look ask for a mid fade or a low taper; for a sharper finish ask for a line-up (a crisp edge at the forehead and temples — see our line-up guide). If you're not sure what a guard number means, the clipper guard size chart lists every length in inches and millimetres, and our guide on how to ask your barber for any cut covers the rest of the vocabulary.

Growing into it: how long it takes

Hair grows about half an inch (1.25 cm) a month. If you're starting from a short crop with about an inch on top, reaching the 3–4 inches a perm needs takes roughly 4–6 months. During that time keep the sides tidy but ask your barber to leave the top alone apart from a light shape — every trim on top pushes the date back. Naturally curly hair can look like a broccoli cut much sooner, often at 2–3 inches stretched, because tight curls shrink and stack up into volume on their own.

How to style and maintain the broccoli cut

Daily routine for a permed or naturally curly broccoli cut:

1. On wash days, use a sulfate-free shampoo and a deeply hydrating conditioner. Work the conditioner through the curl clusters from root to tip, leave for 2–3 minutes, and rinse with cool water.
2. While the hair is still soaking wet, apply a curl cream or a lightweight curl mousse to the top. Scrunch upward from the ends toward the roots — never rake or comb through dry curls.
3. Allow to air-dry for the most natural, frizz-free result. If you use a dryer, use a diffuser attachment on the lowest heat setting, and avoid moving the diffuser around rapidly — hold it still while the curls sit inside the cup.
4. On non-wash days, spritz the top with a water-based curl refresher spray and scrunch gently to reactivate the curl pattern.
5. At night, pineapple the hair (gather the curls loosely at the top of the head with a soft fabric hair tie) to preserve the shape while sleeping, and sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase if possible to reduce frizz.

For a deeper dive into the right products for different curl types and whether a textured crop might suit you better if your hair is wavy rather than curly, the full hair types guide covers the differences in detail.