Slick Back Haircut: Undercut, Fade & Styling Guide

The slick back is deceptively simple: comb everything straight back, hold it in place with a medium-to-high-hold pomade, and leave it. No volume-building, no sculpting, no directional blow-dry. The challenge is everything the cut reveals — a fully exposed forehead, clear bone structure, and a clean hairline — so the styling has to be precise and the product has to hold. Pair it with a sharp undercut or a low fade and the result is one of the most polished looks in men's barbering.

The slick back undercut: the sharpest variation

The slick back undercut combines the fully-back top with a disconnected undercut on the sides — sides cut short or skin-close with a hard line rather than a gradual blend. This disconnection creates one of the most dramatic haircut silhouettes available: the long, flat top sitting on top of very short, almost-absent sides. If you wear it with a side part, a hard part (a thin line shaved along the parting) is optional and adds further definition. For a slightly softer version, ask for a low fade rather than a full undercut disconnect — the sides still look sharp but the transition is smoother.

Slick back with a fade: low, mid or high?

If you are just starting to comb your hair back, the most common question is how high to take the fade. The height changes both how bold the look is and how the top reads.

• Low fade (starts just above the ear and neckline): the most conservative. Keeps some bulk on the sides, which suits long or narrow faces and office settings.
• Mid fade (starts around the temples, midway up the sides): the safest all-rounder for a slick back. It cleans up the sides enough that the combed-back top looks sharp, without exposing much scalp. If you are unsure, start here.
• High fade (starts near the parietal ridge, where the head turns from side to top): the most contrast. The top looks longer and heavier, which suits round faces and thick hair that puffs out at the sides. It can look severe with a very flat, glossy top, shows more scalp, and looks grown-out sooner, so it needs a clean-up every 2–3 weeks.

Short version: choose a mid fade for a balanced, versatile slick back; choose a high fade if you want more contrast or your sides are thick and push outward; choose a low fade or taper for the most classic, low-maintenance look. You can always go higher next visit, but a fade taken too high takes weeks to grow back down.

How to ask your barber for a slick back

For an undercut version, replace the fade with "sides and back at a #1, disconnected, no blend." For a conservative look, ask for a scissor-over-comb taper instead. Guard numbers are explained in our clipper guard sizes guide (#1 = 3 mm, #2 = 6 mm, #3 = 10 mm).

Growing into a slick back

Hair grows about ½ inch (1.25 cm) a month, so going from a short cut with 2 inches on top to a 5-inch slick back takes around six months. The awkward stage is at 3–4 inches, when the hair is long enough to fall forward but not heavy enough to stay back. Get through it by blow-drying the top straight back every morning, using a stronger-hold product (a firm cream or oil-based pomade), and keeping the sides and nape tidy so the whole cut still looks intentional. Ask your barber to leave the top alone and only clean up the sides.

Face shapes and the slick back

Because the slick back exposes the forehead entirely and pulls all visual weight toward the back of the head, it works best with strong facial structure. Oval faces wear it without modification. Square faces benefit from the clean, uncluttered look — the sharp jaw and the clean hairline complement each other. Diamond faces look excellent: the exposed cheekbones and the sleek profile work in harmony.

Round faces can wear a slick back but should keep a small amount of height at the front — not a pompadour-level lift, just a subtle rise — and shorter sides to prevent the face looking wider. Oblong faces should do the opposite: keep the top flat and leave the sides a little fuller (a low fade or taper) so the head does not look longer. Consult our face shape guide for detail. Men with a significant widow's peak should note that the slick back shows it prominently — this can look intentional and strong, or something to work around depending on your preference.

How to style a slick back: step-by-step routine

1. Start with damp hair. Towel-dry until hair is about 60–70% dry. Water-based pomade spreads more evenly and gives a smoother, glossier finish on damp hair; on bone-dry hair it tends to clump. (Oil-based pomade can go on dry hair.)
2. Optional: rough-dry with a vent brush. For the cleanest slick back, use a vent brush to blow-dry the top section straight back on medium heat. This trains the hair into the backward direction and removes the natural forward growth pattern most hair has. Takes 2–3 minutes and significantly improves how flat the finished style sits.
3. Warm a pea-to-marble-sized amount of pomade between your palms. The amount depends on your hair thickness and length. Start with less — you can always add more. Rub your palms together until the pomade is completely transparent and evenly distributed.
4. Work pomade through the hair from front to back. Starting at the hairline, push the hair backward with your palms and fingertips, running your hands from the forehead toward the crown in the direction you want the hair to sit. Cover the entire top section.
5. Comb with a fine-tooth comb, front to back. Use firm, slow strokes from the hairline backward. For an extremely clean line at the sides, hold a fine-tooth comb against the parting line and press the hair firmly down. Repeat across the full top section until everything is uniformly flat and directional.
6. Press the sides smooth. If you are wearing the sides longer (no undercut or fade), comb them back or down and press with your palm. The goal is one continuous line of combed-back hair, not a distinct part.
7. Check the back. Use a hand mirror to confirm the hair at the crown and nape is lying flat and not bunching or flipping up. If it is, apply a tiny amount more pomade and press down firmly with your palm.
8. Optional hairspray finish. A single pass of medium-hold hairspray over the top seals the combed lines and prevents humidity-related frizz lifting the surface. Skip this if the occasion is informal.

Choosing the right product

Product finish matters enormously for this style. The hair products guide has the full breakdown, but for a slick back specifically:

• Water-based pomade (medium–high hold, semi-shine or high-shine): The everyday workhorse. Keeps hair flat and pliable, washes out with warm water, and lets you re-comb if the style shifts. Semi-shine gives a modern, business-ready result; high-shine gives the more classic, slicked look.
• Oil-based pomade (maximum hold, high shine): The most powerful hold, great for thick or resistant hair. Builds up over days for extra grip. Requires clarifying shampoo to remove. Not for everyday use on fine hair.
• Strong-hold hair cream: For a natural, matte slick back. Less gloss, more movement. Works for fine or medium hair that oil-based pomade would weigh flat.

If you prefer the pompadour's height and sweep rather than the slick back's flat profile, read our full pompadour guide — the top length requirement is similar but the styling approach differs significantly.